Opinion

Christmas in Bethlehem 2022 vs 2023

Christians in Palestine called on the world to not celebrate Christmas this year in solidarity with Gaza. Yet many Christian leaders choose to stand with Israel without caring about the land of the man they are supposedly celebrating.

Despite being under occupation, Palestinians resist. They resist yet also welcome worshipers from all over the world, particularly during Christmas and particularly to Bethlehem. Yet this year is different. From resisting and spreading cheer to dejection, the journey has been both short and long. During the genocide inflicted upon Gaza, the Israeli occupation has bombed a number of Gaza’s churches, including the third oldest church in the world. They have killed the earliest Christians and also harmed those Christians in other biblically mentioned towns such as Jerusalem and Jericho. The Christians of Palestine, those from Jesus’s homeland, have called upon the world to not celebrate Christmas this year in solidarity with Gaza and with Palestinians and to call for an end to the genocide instead. Yet, the world, including many Christian leaders across the world, are publicly standing with Israel without so much as caring about the land of the man they are supposedly celebrating.

Thinking back to last Christmas, I woke up at my hotel early on December 25, 2022, in Jerusalem, right near Damascus Gate, from where I could faintly hear the call to prayer from Al Aqsa. Today was going to be exciting. The plan was to visit Bethlehem on Christmas Day. I may be Muslim, but the thought of experiencing Christmas in Bethlehem was nothing short of special. 

Christmas tree in Bethlehem, December 2022. (Photo: Syeda Maah-Noor Ali)
Christmas tree in Bethlehem, December 2022. (Photo: Syeda Maah-Noor Ali)

After an unnecessarily convoluted journey, which included being dehumanized at checkpoints, we finally reached Bethlehem. The first thing I noticed was how less commercialized Christmas is in the Holy Land. The focus is most definitely more on worship and joy than dramatic decorations. The huge Christmas tree in Manger Square, a blown-up Santa, and some small decorations in homes, being a few exceptions. Despite the minimal decorations, the spirit was alive and well. The square and areas around were teeming with worshipers and onlookers like myself. People were clamoring toward the grotto under the Church of Nativity, which is believed to be the place where Jesus was born. At the entrance, we found a Palestinian policeman. It was refreshing to see the Palestinian flag on his uniform, and he welcomed us with a smile. Then we began to enter. We started ducking very low to get through the tiny stone door, barely over a meter and a half. Once in, we stood up straight and were met with a magnificent display. The chancel with gilded iconostasis was a bejeweled sight to behold. The stone church, the gold hues, the candles, and the ruby red decorations. But what struck me were the lines, the lines were huge. People lined up one behind the other on their holiest day after their morning service. To get a chance to take it all in and worship. To pay their respects at the grotto. 

Seeing the Christmas celebrations in full swing in the Church of the Nativity on Christmas day was nothing short of electric and an image I will never forget. 

But this year, Christmas is canceled in Bethlehem. The tree in Manger Square is nowhere to be seen. There is melancholy in the air. The birthplace of Christianity has asked its residents to withhold from celebrations and ceremonies this year. No decorations and no festivities in the public areas of the city. 

A scene in the Church of Nativity on December 24, 2023 in Bethlehem, West Bank. Last month, Christian Palestinian leaders here called off public Christmas celebrations, citing the effects of the ongoing war in Gaza. (Photo: Mamoun Wazwaz/APA Images)
A scene in the Church of Nativity on December 24, 2023 in Bethlehem, West Bank. Last month, Christian Palestinian leaders here called off public Christmas celebrations, citing the effects of the ongoing war in Gaza. (Photo: Mamoun Wazwaz/APA Images)

Rev Munther Isaac Live from Bethlehem, in his ‘Liturgy of Lament’ told us that while in America last month, upon seeing the excess decorations and commercialization of Christmas, he thought that “They sent us bombs whilst celebrating Christmas in their lands’ ‘they sing about the prince of peace in their land, while playing the drum of war in our land,'” and that encapsulates the feelings of many. The West watches and cheers on the genocide in Gaza, all whilst celebrating the birth of a Palestinian man. If Jesus were born today, he would be born under rubble, he would be born under occupation. He would be born under persecution; he would be born being hated. The journey from Nazareth to Bethlehem wouldn’t have been made, the apartheid wall and checkpoints would have prevented it. Jesus’s existence would have been taken as a threat by Israel. 

The irony isn’t lost. The irony is astounding and sickening. 

Jesus was Palestinian, this is a factual statement. But very conveniently, Palestine has been eradicated from the retelling of the Christmas story in the Western world. 

By painting Bethlehem as a mystical place far far away, with mangers and wise men, and absolutely no mention that Bethlehem is in Occupied Palestine, resisting to survive every day. Fighting for its existence. People don’t like speaking about politics, but politics is real, the occupation is real, the systematic violence is real. But all very very conveniently left out. Left out to prevent making people uncomfortable. To prevent ‘ruining the holiday mood’ yet there would be no ‘holiday mood’ if Jesus hadn’t been born. Born in a land that is being bombed. Born in a land with an active occupation. and no one thinks. What of the 20,000 + people in Gaza that have been mercilessly massacred? What of the men, women, children? What of the holy sights? What of Gaza’s Christian population? Those that live only a few kilometers from where Jesus was born? 

Christmas day saw one of the biggest massacres in Gaza by Israel. They took advantage of the world looking away for their festivities and slaughtered. 

Even Bethlehem was attacked as part of routine raids on the West Bank. 

There is no pause, or looking away, or breaks for Palestinians. 

The world just doesn’t care. But it must. 

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Nails it down:

“Rev Munther Isaac Live from Bethlehem, in his ‘Liturgy of Lament’ told us that while in America last month, upon seeing the excess decorations and commercialization of Christmas, he thought that “They sent us bombs whilst celebrating Christmas in their lands’ ‘they sing about the prince of peace in their land, while playing the drum of war in our land,’” and that encapsulates the feelings of many. The West watches and cheers on the genocide in Gaza, all whilst celebrating the birth of a Palestinian man. If Jesus were born today, he would be born under rubble, he would be born under occupation. He would be born under persecution; he would be born being hated. The journey from Nazareth to Bethlehem wouldn’t have been made, the apartheid wall and checkpoints would have prevented it. Jesus’s existence would have been taken as a threat by Israel”.