Susan Johnson is a Doylestown, Pa., grandmother with two volunteer gigs in Gaza waiting for her. She's written about her big trip earlier this summer.
And here I sit in Cairo, exhausted and disappointed. I have been denied entrance to Gaza twice! I'm amazed I'm not angry and ready to give up, even though I'm discouraged.
My trip began August 24 with my flight from JFK being delayed for two hours. Arrival in Cairo though three hours late was simple; purchasing a visa, exchanging money, processing through passport control, collecting bags, walking out of the terminal into the blast of Egyptian heat and relief upon seeing "Susan Johnson" in the midst of the driver's signs.
I knew not speaking Arabic would be a disadvantage...boy was I correct! Mohammad, my driver, speaks some English which is a relief. The ride into Cairo was wild. I'd forgotten the traffic going at break-neck speeds, no traffic lights, horns blaring and turns being made in all directions. It's amazing!
Mohammad invited me to his home for Iftar, the meal breaking the fast during Ramadan. It gave me my first experience in sharing the culture, not just observing it....one of the main reasons I'm here. We had chicken, rice, salad, a fantastic soup with bay leaves, whole cloves and other spices I couldn't name. Mohammad's wife was the cook; his mother having relinquished the role to her daughter in law. Mohammad's family is Palestinian, moving to Egypt in 67. His father couldn't imagine why I wanted to go to Gaza and kept saying no, no good. I tried to explain but his English is very limited...he only does well when trying to sell telephones, calculators, watches, etc.
No matter where I go I'm asked "WHY" when people learn I'm going to Gaza.
They see no point in me going, especially the Egyptian-Palestinians. On the other hand, Palestinians in the US are excited and supportive. In fact they've been fantastic; I've received phone calls and emails from them since I've been here.
After the meal it was off to my hotel. Most of the shops are closed until sundown during Ramadan and then open until after midnight. Throughout our drive there was a carnival atmosphere; stores were open, hundreds of people of all ages walking the streets, shopping and visiting. Groups of men reclined on grassy spots. They looked like old friends but that's not necessarily the case. Strangers are welcomed and just join in the conversation. The only place that might happen in the States is during a sporting event but without the intimacy.
Saturday we made the five hour drive to the Rafah border crossing, leaving at 4:00 am. The drive was long and exciting. Again, the cars and trucks race along, at times at 90 mph. When a car wants to pass they blow the horn and the "offending" car, truck, motor scooter or donkey cart moves over. Only saw one case of road rage.... The donkey carts were usually driven by women and sometimes loaded with goods for market. As Rafah drew closer the women were more conservatively dressed, many with all but their eyes covered. Workers were packed into vans and trucks with people hanging onto the back. Small houses made of concrete blocks dot the desert, some with a tin roof held down with rocks, others had no roof at all; most of the windows didn't appear to have glass or shutters, There were also large houses, partially built in with the first floor finished and the metal supports for the second floor installed. There's an enormous amounts of building every where; from Cairo all the way to Rafah. El Arish appears to be booming with new homes apartment buildings, industry and shops. I wonder if the US aid has something to do with it.
Goats and camels grazed in the desert, on what I don't know. Small herds of goats, un- attended, wandered in village streets and even in El Arish. In a deserted area a large wooden camel marked the entrance to a camel farm. That was about the only commercial evidence I saw for live stock.
As the border crossing appeared before us, I began to feel anxious about the process but had no real worry about being denied entry. A large ornamental gate encloses the actual gate and the head man has a room with typical glass window. I cheerfully went and presented my documents, which he examined with a puzzled look. I was motioned to go-- go somewhere out of his sight. Once again I was the only woman present except for three women selling almonds and dates...they were covered with only their eyes exposed. Plastic chairs were placed under the only shade tree and occupied by men. I took a chair and moved it away from the group but was not going to sit in the sun. My driver, Mohammad sat with the men and I believe he put in a good word for me.
Periodically I would walk over to the man with the power, checking the progress on my request....Not yet...go sit...Not yet, go sit.
My buddies under the tree offered encouragement with thumbs up, big smiles and laughter. As for Mr. Power, at times he had four or five soldiers in his room...Once I arrived at the window finding everyone asleep. Who was working on my request? Or even taking it seriously? Mr Power said he was phoning the Embassy, it would take ten minutes, then, come back in 15 minutes, it will take another 10 minutes, five minutes. Each time I'd go sit down under the tree, wait and then walk the long short distance to the window.
Finally I said I'd call if I could use the phone...Mr Power proceeded to tell me..no outside, only inside call. That caused my mood to blacken..Then how could you call the Embassy? You aren't being honest! All of the sudden he knows no English. I receive the same response when I ask for his name. I resumed my place under the tree...my buddies are sending signs of encouragement but I'm sure they knew way before I that I was denied entry to Gaza. The game had been played for five hours and it didn't dawn on me until about 4 hours 55 minutes into it that I wouldn't be crossing into Gaza.
The driver and I prepared for departure and my buddies under the tree waved good-bye. I was a bit discouraged about my failure but was quite excited and happy with the cultural experience. That was successful even though the border crossing wasn't.
That night I stayed in El Arish. I kept asking the driver to take me to the Sinai Sun Hotel... He conveniently didn't understand English and took me to an Egyptian hotel located in a semi-residential area. As we opened the door I saw a group of about eight men gathered around the front desk. By the time we made it up the three stairs to the lobby they had disappeared. Once again, I was the only woman within sight. This time it felt strange... I couldn't help but wonder if there weren't women hidden away somewhere.
I had a difficult time explaining I didn't want my room service dinner delivered until after sunset. Finally I said Ramadan; made motions of eating then put my hand across my mouth and shook my head no. Understanding at last! I'd decided to try participating in the Ramadan fasting out of respect and good will. Most people, especially Muslims, discouraged me from fasting adding that I wouldn't be expected to fast. Makes no difference to me; I'm fasting but need to drink water because of medications. This is my fourth day!
Looking out my hotel window I could see desert in the distance and up close, small enclosed back yards...about the size you'd find behind row houses in an American city. Amazing sights...a small herd of goats in one, chickens and small hutches similar to ones used for rabbits in another; one with a lovely outdoor seating arrangement, clothes drying on bushes in another; even a roof top chicken yard.
The next day, Sunday, it was back to the border and more of the same...only it wasn't as much fun; still fun but not as much as the day before. I decided to try waiting by the window while Mr Power did nothing with my papers. He was in a terrible mood, screaming and hollering at the police, soldiers and "porters". Once or twice tempers gave way to shoving matches. Who knows what caused the upsets but they certainly weren't there the day before.
Must mention the "porters" who are really gangs of teenage boys hell bent on carrying your baggage. It's a bit like throwing corn on the sidewalk and being overtaken by pigeons. They jump into cars grabbing suitcases before the passenger can get out. They work in teams and there's some system that allows certain boys to carry baggage through the gate into "no man's land" and put it on carts. The scene is wild but everyone appears not to notice....except me. The first time we arrived at the border and were overtaken by the helpers I was terrified. That's the only fear I've experienced here.
To make a long day, short; once again I was denied entry to Gaza. It didn't feel good! Thankfully the ride back to Cairo was an adventure, making up for some of my disappointment. The driver was from El Arish and spoke no English. As the hours passed we developed some communication...usually involving humor. Mohammad (the original taxi driver) kept calling and it became a joke...as soon as the phone rang we'd say "Mohammad" and begin laughing.
The big adventure was having dinner at a truck stop. There was an indoor area that contained the kitchen and what appeared to be a shop. There was a small room set off to one side for prayers. All the seating and a large elaborate home made grill were outside. Once again I was the only female...don't know what the thoughts were about my sitting at the same table with Amed. The food was delicious and rather fancy for a truck stop. I ordered grilled meat, which turned out to be beef, served on a bed of greens. I'd already begun to eat with my fingers when someone appeared with a fork. We had two kinds of salad, mangoes in a syrup, an amazing soup beyond description, pickled something, I know I'm leaving out things...and lots of pita! Amed called for a hookah and after having it refilled twice finished his smoking and we hit the road again for another wild ride.
Today I'm afraid I'm no closer to entering Gaza than I was yesterday. I can't seem to make any progress. Getting in touch with the Egyptian Foreign Ministry is more difficult than contacting god. The emails sent to address listed on their website are returned. Phone calls to numbers I've been given to use in an emergency are not in service. I finally reached a person at the Ministry who spoke a tiny bit of English. She gave me two phone numbers for someone who handles Palestine. One turned out to be a fax number, the other was never answered. She also gave me the Foreign Ministry's address. First thing tomorrow morning I'll take a taxi to that address. If I have any luck it will be the correct address and someone will be able to help me. I really do want to go to Gaza!
Hi Susan, sounds very frustrating.
Who is actually making the decision as to your entry? Is Mr. Power European, Egyptian or Israeli? I’m curious because, despite the location on the Gaza/Egypt border Israel largely controls the Rafah border crossing by admitting (or not) the EU BAM employees who are supposed to man that crossing. Additional security for the Rafah is supposed to be provided by a Fatah agency (Force 17), but since the Hamas/Fatah conflict that agency is no longer operating in Gaza – Israel using that to deny entry to the border crossing of the Israel-based EU BAM staff.
link to en.wikipedia.org
link to en.wikipedia.org
Would it be feasible to enter Gaza via a tunnel? I suppose then you may run into significant problems back in Egypt if you overstay your Egyptian visa.
Israel is clamping down on internationals in East Jerusalem/West Bank and I suppose the same will be happening in Gaza, at the Israeli-controlled crossing and the Egyptian (US/Israel controlled by proxy) crossing. Conceivably, there will come a time when all internationals are prohibited from entering the occupied territories – which could be an extremely dangerous time for Palestinians, since the presence of internationals tends to moderate IDF violence..
Good luck, keep us posted.
I can’t discount the possibility that the demographic with which you came in contact happened to be Les Misérables, a group that time has forgotten since they escaped one war or another. Nonetheless, there is a general sense of despair in the poor quarters of the Middle East; Egypt being one of them. So, it’s not surprising that there is a stark contrast between Palestinians in Egypt and Palestinians in the US. For those in Egypt, Gaza might very well seem like Dante’s 7th level, while Egypt is still at level 6 or 5, if you will.
Egypt seems to be the only country in the region where “15 more minutes” become several hours. At the very least, the Israelis won’t tell you when you can expect anyone to show up, you’re just left there waiting for hours. The Jordanians might say 15 minutes, and the person you need will show up 25 or 35 minutes later. But the Egyptians seem to have their own Daylight Wasting Time.
Entering Egypt by car at about 10AM, I was once told that the only guy who could sign off on my temporary registration was going to be there after 2PM. Having already known that 15 minutes actually meant an hour or an hour and a half, I suspected that 2PM mark could very well become 6PM or the day after, or worse, the following week.
He’s a taxi driver, so it’s a given that he’ll have passengers. The fact that you’re a foreigner gives you more leeway as you are not held to the same social or cultural norms to which locals are held. That means that your behavior is interpreted by those present within the context of your own culture.
Sumud, first”’thanks for the good wishes, I need them.
As near as I can determine what I lack is having my name appear on a list of those approved by Egypt for entry. I’m certain Israeli involvement factors into this but no one says. In fact no one says much of anything!
I have my notarized affidavit from the US Embassy stating I am aware I will have no rights to counsel if I enter Gaza. I also have a letter of invitation from UNRWA to work on the MECA water purification project. Dr Mona El Farra directs the project (I will be staying with her) and I wish they’d put her name on the letter.
Mona tried all the contacts she has in Gaza and thought I had been put on the list but no such luck.
Tunnel entrance is out of the question. I just couldn’t do it and you are right returning would be a nightmare.
The up side of all of this is I’m having a wonderful cultural experience I would never have had had I gotten in to Gaza the first or second time. Truly my time in Egypt has been amazing and I’m fortunate; it’s almost as though I’ve received a bonus. I refuse to see it as a consultation prize.
That said, I am a very patient and determined lady; I am going to make it to Gaza!
Susan
Hey Suzan,
That sounds like a rich experience. But Why do they deny you entry? What are their reasons?
No reasons were given. I was told by others I needed to be on the Egyptians approved list; that I should go to the Egyptian Foreign Ministry; explain my request, present my papers, offer an additional reference and I should be put on the list.
Well, I went to the Ministry, went to gate one, was told to go to gate three where I was told to go to gate one. Bingo I was admitted to a security office where they spoke no English (I do need to speak Arabic) Finally the man I was dealing with made some phone calls and found a woman who knew what I wanted and what she was talking about.
There’s a new boss and new rules. She cannot deal directly with people wanting to go to Gaza….now, all the information must be submitted by an Embassy, I need to go to the US Embassy and have them submit my documentation. I need an appointment…first available one, Sept 14. Guess who’s going to her Embassy first thing tomorrow? Will keep you posted. (I am exhausted…stopped fasting, brain was turning to mush and right now I need energy and a clear head)
I had joked when you posted your travel plans a few weeks ago that you should buy a case of Marlboros and enter through a tunnel. But it wasn’t entirely a joke.
Any problems upon exiting could probably be handled expeditiously by paying a fine and promising not to do it again. Keep one carton of Marlboros for the exit fine.
I admire your courage and determination.
Stay well. Be patient. There is no guarantee that you will get in, but it is not only Palestinians that wait in line endlessly and seemingly without purpose anywhere in the Middle East, and in Egypt in particular.
I was in Cairo for a week years ago, and was surprised how few people spoke or wrote English. I made my way by hooking up with someone that spoke English German and French, who found someone that spoke French and Arabic.
So when it’s one person you profess admiration, but when it’s ~700 on a 35-nation flotilla trying to deliver 10,000 tonnes of aid you embark on a week-long tirade against them (the week prior to May 31)?
Curiouser and curiouser..
Of course. The one person isn’t successful, so Witty applauds their efforts. The flotilla may have actually undone some of Israel’s efforts to depopulate Gaza through lebensraum policy, and so Witty feels compelled to shoot it down figuratively while his extended family in Israel do so literally.
On the Free Gaza movement, I expressed support for intently and disciplined non-violent approaches, as intentional acts of civil disobedience seeking to artfully inform the world of a tragedy.
The Mari Mavmara was somewhere in between violent and not.
I contested the statements that the blockade was illegal (its not clear), that the boarding could not legally occur in international waters (not clear), that the Israeli commandos were “murderers” and not primarily defending themselves (unclear).
I respect individual conscience. That trumps groupthink in my mind a hundred-fold. I respect that Susan was so determined that she was willing to travel individually, taking the risks entailed.
My views will never likely conform to what you think is politically correct, so if you want to bash sincere respect, that is your choice.
When practiced only at the mirror, sincere respect is of little value.
If that’s not you Richard, why did you repeatedly avoid answering my question as to the confiscation of all independent footage belonging to flotilla activists and journalists? I must have have asked a dozen times and the best you could manage is “I don’t know”. I don’t detect respect.
Meanwhile we had previously been subjected to a week of highly opinionated anti-flotilla posts from yourself.
So why Richard? What is the IDF seeking to conceal? Also, please address the appalling amateur MFA propaganda issued after May 31, highlights being: the report that members of Al Qaeda were on board the Mavi Marmara, the purported weapons cache photos with EXIF data from several years ago, and the fabulously crank radio communications (“go back to Auschwitz”). Please, something substantial.
LOL, the EXIF data again, you guys keep repeating the same old lies and debunked ‘facts’ seriously get some new material.
Thanks for your post, Susan. Loved reading it. Be careful. We all wish you well here and hope you get to your goal. You did a nice job of conveying
the local Egyptian atmosphere. Damn, you are patient!
This is just more evidence that Egypt is fully complicit in the blockade of Gaza. As is the US, of course.
How is it evidence of anything?
It is an anecdote by an individual that cannot tell the reason for any bureaucratic and/or suppressive incident there.
Says the man who makes it sound like pogroms against Jews in Lebanon are rampant, and then has nothing to show for it.
One of the themes of this blog is that truth is important, that propaganda is deceptive and ultimately inneffective.
To conflate an anecdote of a circumstance to a fact, is a fraud Chaos.
Maybe its true. The most you have currently is a suspicion.
You just shot your own foot, Witty. Bookmarked, and I’m going to be throwing this in your face every time you try to intimate that anti-occupation activists are terrorists.
The thing thats wierd is that you probably believe that I think that those that apply non-violence in anti-occupation efforts are terrorists, or even rock-throwers (they are not non-violent, but rock-throwing is irritation, not terrorism).
But, those that intentionally murder civilians are terrorists, whether they do so in some fanatic urge to oppose occupation, or just for psychic malady.
>> This is just more evidence that Egypt is fully complicit in the blockade of Gaza.
I would suggest that Egypt merits condemnation for its actions, but condemnation is maximalist and we all know that maximalism is destabilizing. So, the Palestinians will just have to learn to paddle around the rock that is Egyptian complicity.
It looks like HAMAS may have thwarted the US Army engineer project & funding building the wall along the Egyptian border: link to almasryalyoum.com