The inside of Gaza’s international airport, wrecked by Israeli air strikes (Photo: Free Gaza/Flickr)
And thereby hangs a tale. And therein lies my pain. What worsens the situation and doubles the pain is that all moves around, oblivious to every fact on the ground. I seem destined to suffer each time I have to cross the Rafah border into Egypt. My story is not worth mentioning as compared to other ghastly stories whose ending is shaped by the Palestinian-Egyptian mood by which the conflict is once eased and million times further complicated. Unluckily, the latter has always been my case whenever I need to travel. And this makes the odyssey of crossing the Rafah-border worth telling. “Why don’t Palestinians have an airport?” it’s the joke that kills me the most. The difficulty of going out and into Gaza makes each story have its own special taste of pain. The last I travelled, I wished Gaza were located next to Cairo’s International Airport, so we wouldn’t have to withstand the humiliation of being allowed to cross the desert on a six-hour car ride from Gaza to Cairo. “Why couldn’t we transfer Gaza there, so we wouldn’t bother the Egyptians ever again?” this is the joke I want to hear and weep at.
Fidaa Abuassi
When waiting became unbearable, I declared a state of emergency. I needed to travel to Spain to meet my fiancé to whom I have been engaged for six months, since he himself couldn’t come to Gaza to meet me. It was so urgent for us to meet up before I could go to America for my scholarship; which means, we won’t be able to see each other for almost a year. Time wasn’t on our side. After two months of intensive labour, the Schengen visa was issued, miraculously. Thanks to the Consulate General of Spain in Jerusalem for being so very considerate. With all we had gone through to get this visa, Egypt suddenly declared that the Rafah border would be closed for some days, on the pretext of having some security concerns and other essential maintenance work at the border. Egypt closed the border without showing any consideration whatsoever for the Palestinians who were dying to get out, for those who purchased their flight tickets at too great a price, for those whose departure from Gaza was a matter of life and death, for those whose scholarships were to be lost due to the border closure and the list goes on. I just wonder when we will be able to travel freely with no restrictions over movement? Will the new Egyptian government bring any real change on the ground?
When I heard the news regarding the closure of the Rafah Border, I tried my best to keep my composure despite my desperate need to explode into tears. I can’t but owe my fiancé whose faith and patience feed my hope and stamina whenever I am about to lose both. I put all my trust in Allah Who always wants the best for us, for me. Alhamdulillah, after living on my nerves for a week, I rejoiced at the news that finally Egypt decided to open the border. My happiness was beyond any description. Without going into details, I would like to say that despite the humiliation I had to experience and the difficulties I had to endure, my trip was totally worth it.
Speaking of my Fulbright scholarship, I was supposed to attend an orientation meeting in Turkey/Istanbul; that is, I had to travel once again. This time, I needed not wait at the border or cross the Sinai desert. I was a normal traveler, at an airport, flying from Valencia to Turkey, no dehumanization or humiliation whatsoever. Yes, I was a normal human being traveling from one place to another, smoothly. If it wasn’t for the hard moment I spent at the Valencia Airport, for I had to say goodbye to the man I love the most on earth, I would have considered this flight the best I have ever had.
The funniest part of this tale started on my way back from Turkey to Cairo. At the airport, I happened to be travelling with many Egyptians who warmly saluted me being a Palestinian. I can’t but scribble down the many questions I was asked by the Egyptians who were on the same flight as mine. By “the Egyptian”, I don’t mean only one Egyptian; there were many asking, but I knew no one’s name, so let’s refer to them as “the Egyptian”, I “the Palestinian” and whatever written between brackets are the thoughts I had in mind back then.
The Egyptian: So, you are from Gaza? How’s Gaza doing these days?
The Palestinian: Alhamdulillah, Gaza is now better off, despite the daily power cuts, the high rate of unemployment,… I think things are now changing to the better. (I avoided mentioning the siege and the closure of the Rafah border, so the Egyptians wouldn’t feel offended as though I was blaming them for the siege)
The Egyptian: But tell us how you can handle the Israeli soldiers in your country?
The Palestinian: (I paused, then frowned. For some reason, I couldn’t fathom the question I was asked. Israeli soldiers? Country? Didn’t I mention I was from Gaza?) What Israeli soldiers? We don’t have them in Gaza.
The Egyptian: Wallahi, bjd? really? Ya3ni khalas mafesh I7telal 3endokom? So, no Israeli Occupation out there?
The Palestinian: Well, not really, we are still occupied. (Did I confuse them more?)
The Egyptian: eezay? How so?
The Palestinian: Yes, Gaza is still under siege, still occupied, but there is no physical interaction between us and the occupier. We have no control over the land, the sky and the sea… (I was trying to elaborate, making sure I don’t confuse further. By the way, I thought they knew this)
The Egyptian: Ah! Anyway, our heart is with you wallahi!
The Palestinian: We know. We all appreciate what the Egyptians do for us.
The Egyptian: Don’t mention! We are Ummah wahada (one nation)
The Palestinian: Yes, Alhamdulillah. May Allah unite us, always.
The Egyptian: Okay, but tell us why are you visiting Cairo? Any relatives? Vacation?
The Palestinian: No, wallah, I am going back home, Gaza.
The Egyptian: But Habibti this flight is heading to Cairo, not Gaza!
The Palestinian: Yes, I know, Palestinians have to cross Egypt to go back to Gaza
The Egyptian: lesh el laffa di? why all this trouble? Don’t you have an airport in Gaza?
That was the joke that killed me. Well, I wanted to tell them “of course we do, but Gaza airport is old-fashioned (no wonder I love fashion), and it is actually fun to have a six-hour car ride crossing the desert only to enjoy life’s luxury at Cairo Airport”. I didn’t want to sound rude though. I tried my best to explain the situation in Gaza, and that Gaza is not actually a country, the Rafah crossing, the siege,…etc. Those Egyptians seem way better off than that Egyptian who once asked my friend “heya Ghazah di feen? Where exactly does Gaza exist?” Anyway, I just hope I made myself a bit more understandable. Again, it would be ridiculous to generalize from a single example. Yes, I have seen many people confused about whatever related to Palestine; however, I am sure some others are very understanding of our situation and fully aware of what’s really going on in reality. I am in no position to judge anyone. It’s our duty to clear up any confusion. Now, wouldn’t it be a bit less confusing if we had an airport in Gaza?
Ps. Since I didn’t find a cool photo of Gaza Airport, I posted my photo with that resentful look! It may serve a purpose or convey a message!
(Crossposted on Fidaa Abu Assi ‘s blog Gaza in Words)
Fidaa, congratulations on your scholarship and best wishes in your studies.
Please pardon me if I am wrong, but Al-Ahram said that the Rafah crossing is now open for travel; someone else told me that Palestinians are now admitted to Egypt for 3 days without a visa, enough to complete travel arrangements and any chores or errands. I take it you are referring to past experiences, hopefully not to be repeated.
link to english.ahram.org.eg
citizenc, it is mondoweiss who is responsible for the timing of our publication. if you checkout the link to fidaa’s blog, where this is crossposted. you can see she published on july 23rd, the same date as the announcement at your link. although we first read fidaa’s entry on the 23rd, not being ‘breaking news’, it just took a few days to get the post up and of course we needed to contact fidaa and get her permission to repost.
anyway, i suppose my point is..anyone who writes about something they’ve experienced is, by definition, speaking of past experiences. i think this article is very timely and let’s hope this new policy you’ve brought to our attention makes all the difference in the world to gazans. either way, there’s still a blockade going on. it may be in the process of being eased but it’s still not normal.
Thank you very much for reading my post. I do appreciate. As Annie mentioned, I am talking about sth I experienced this month. I don’t know how implementable whatever mentioned in the link is! Still, I experience hell whenever I travel. I am travelling next week, and if I had a pleasant experience with the Egyptians at the border, I will make sure I write about this. I have to be fair, after all.
Best,
Fidaa
You’re very welcome Fidaa. I’m sure you do experience hell when you travel, and in general in Gaza. Hopefully Egypt will now provide some small relief in traveling. Good luck in your studies and congratulations on your engagement.
the mere fact that we spend half our lives talking about the border opening and closing and the power “coming” and “going” is what makes the situation miserable. Has israel managed to create a zillion ways to distract Palestinians from struggling for their rights?
Mr. Refaat,
Ya, sadly. We get busy with our the challenges we face daily and we forget to fight for our rights!
i loved this part. i could visualize fidaa standing there in a daze of amazement at the normal-ness of no dehumanization or humiliation! imagine that! and she only had to go to spain to experience it! wonders never cease.
Annie,
I won’t ever be able to thank you enough. You are such an amazing person who I am proud I know. God bless you.
I was supposed to attend an orientation meeting in Turkey/Istanbul; that is, I had to travel once again. This time, I needed not wait at the border or cross the Sinai desert. I was a normal traveler, at an airport, flying from Valencia to Turkey, no dehumanization or humiliation whatsoever. Yes, I was a normal human being traveling from one place to another, smoothly.
It’s utterly unacceptable that those simple freedoms we take for granted are nearly unattainable luxuries, sometime little more than dreams, for the people of Gaza and the West Bank. Traveling is one of life’s greatest, and simplest, joys. The fact that the Israeli government and military (with the intermittent assistance of the Egyptian authorities) dictate that the 1.5+ million Palestinians of Gaza have no right to travel is a crime against humanity.
Thanks for a glimpse into your world, Fidaa.
Thank you for being such a considerate person. Your words mean a lot to me. Thank-you.
The destruction of Gaza’s Airport was a crime against humanity and a bit of racism, too.
I totally agree. Thank you for reading my post.
This young woman is someone’s dream come true. Not just her parents’ and her fiancee’s, but also her teachers who’s work must be a long, slow, labor of love in places like Gaza, Nablus, Jenin, al Aqaba, & etc.
Her English is both perfect and beautiful.
Bio from her blog:
Born with challenges in the besieged Gaza strip, I am a 23-year old Palestinian who has managed to do her utmost to succeed and make her seemingly unachievable dreams achievable despite the severe limits our circumstances imposed on us.
Dear Denis,
Awwww, I love that you checked my bio. That was an old one, though. I gotta write something new. Thanks for your sweet words. Much respect.
Unreservedly, there are many things motivate me (Also all the readers) read someone’s writing carefully, like the form of the topic (E.g. theme and title), forew
-ord and the being of the writer. Really, I found the best of these things in your
writing, so I always read it carefully, and I think the proof is, writing this comment.
First, you have lucid and obscure title (in the same time) which makes the reader be excited to read what you wrote. But about pictures which you attached, first picture takes the role of making the title more luchid partly, and the second one, it
completely takes the part of makin’ the topic more shaply.
Secondly, “And thereby hangs a tale. And therein lies my pain.” these two sentences let me think about your topic. After one minute of thinkin’, the first piture, the title and the first two sentnces renderd me to know that your topic is about ur
suffering of traviling from Gaza. Undoubtedly, Your case makes you so different from other travelers , soyour story really worth enough to mintion.
Thirldy, out of courtesy, you own the favored writer’s characteristics, so that you are now front paged on Mondoweiss and always lots go on reading what u write.
Fourth, Newscasts can’t puplish and descripe all what happens in a land, so you can’t know about the land without living ‘n it. even our neighbor countries don’t know anything about us, so we have to go on publishing to others what is happining.
Fifth, I really liked lots of words in this essay. Also I liked putting the conversation ‘nd mixing it with some Egyption Arabic. In addition, I wanna answer your last question “wouldn’t it be a bit less confusing if we had an airport in Gaza?”, first we have to own our Gaza, then it wouldn’t be ^__^.
Finally, I wish you’ll enjoy having your scholarship in America, and come back to your future husband. Go on in writing and do’t let anything stop in your way of making your dreams come true. May God fill your life with happiness and blessings.
Best Wishes
Maher,
I really thank you for your lovely words. It makes me happy to see how people like what I write; only then could I like what I write. Weird, I know. :) My bad!
Fidaa, the more you write beautiful and informative pieces like this, the sooner you will have an airport (with all that implies, freedom-wise).
Congrats on your scholarship.
Keep bringin’ it! (Keep writing!)
Thanks my dear, Ritzl. I do appreciate. I will try to keep writing insha’Allah. It’s my only ventilation into the world.
Believe it or not, most of the people of the world do breathe your air (“ventilation”). Freedom is a powerful, common, and shared aspiration, no pun intended.
All the best.
Fidaa, brilliant article. Don’t know if you are reading the comment section. If so, then Schloenich Habibti Fidaa?
Thank you so much for the dialogue. Loved it. :LOL:
Inshallah Gaza will soon become richer than Dubai and Hong Kong.
Wada’an Fidaa.
Dear Anan,
Yeaa, I am reading the comment section :) and I am actually very happy. I am fine, my dear. But I feel we know each other, if so, tell me who you are ^^
Thank you for reading my post. And we don’t want Gaza to be rich, or richer than Dubai or so and so; no, at least we want it to have a normal life! A simple one. We don’t ask for more, believe me! Our right to life, only.
Fidaa, we do not know each other. However your warm compassionate personality emanates through your words. Your fiancé is one of the luckiest human beings on earth. May Allah be ever present in both of your hearts.
“Thank you for reading my post.” The pleasure of reading your post was all mine. Your dialogue with the Egyptians lifted my spirits. I love the phrase “Ummah wahada”. All humanity, muslim and nonmuslim is Ummah wahada.
You are right to not have too many desires. It is Allah’s grace that you feel this way.
God willing the sanctions against Gaza will end soon and life will flourish beyond all of our wildest imaginings.
Please write again.
Dear Ms Abuassi,
You may drive past my village on the way to Cairo. El Nakhas, in Sharkiya, where there is a community of ’48 displaced persons from Palestine, the very best of luck to you and your English is great, hopefully Egypt will disgrace itself a bit less under the collaborationist Ikhwan, nothing surely could equal the crass policies of Hosni “la Vache Qui Ris” Mubarak, but only time will tell.
Habibi Gamal, could you please elaborate on how Morsi is a collaborationist Ikhwan? I am most uncomfortable with Morsi’s previous closeness to extremists in the Gulf and Pakistan (Takfiri). Is this what you mean by collaborationist?
May Allah bless your community in El Nakhas.
I had no idea that Gaza actually has an airport. According to Wikipedia, the airport was built with funding from Germany and some other countries. It made me really angry to read that the airport was destroyed by Israel only 3 years after its opening. Instead of wasting our money on further military equipment for Israel, the German government should use this money to rebuild the Gaza airport.
Fibaa Abuassi story is both inspirational and depressing in the one story.
I’ve been following the mondowiess web-site for a few months now and I find this web-site both inspiratioal and depressing as well.
One of the over-riding themes on the web-site seems to be Isreal’s future. I think its important to realise that we basically already know what Isreal’s future will be.
If you look back through the history of the world you’ll find that certain country’s/states/empires that rely on oppression and lies to maintain their existance normally end up the same way. Some of the more recent examples might include Nazi-Germany, the Soviet Union, aparthied South Africa, Pol Pot’s Cambodia. Even the most recent historical event, the ‘Arab Spring’, has revealled what happens to country’s/states/empires that rely on oppression and lies to maintain their existance.
Unfortunately, for the Jews, Isreal definitely falls into the category of ‘country/state/empire’ that relies on oppression and lies to maintain its existance. One of Isreal’s other great strenght’s, has been its ability to antagonise its neighbours. There are already, some historians saying that the ‘Arab Spring’ will end with the destruction of the state of Isreal. I think its important for the contributors to this web-site to know that history has told us what Isreal’s future is. Of course it would be preferable if the obvious did not happen but, one of the depressing things about modoweiss is that there are clearly a lot of contributors who are clearly, what I would call, ‘victims of properganda’.
Historians will also talk to you about history’s ‘turning points’. These ‘turning points’ are often innocuous, insignificant events. Like the street vendor in Tunisa who self-immobilised. I personnally believe that Isreal’s ‘turning point’ came with the assisination of Rabin. From that point onwards it was obvious that Isreal was not interested in peace. But, many historians disagree, they believe that Isreals ‘turning point’ is fast approaching. And that ‘turning point’ is called – Iran.
This story on the attack on the Rafah crossing shows how Fidaa and all of Gaza are being held hostage to Israel’s isolation of Gaza. The outlaw tunnel economy and smuggling, which in turn are functions of Israel’s blockade, are at the root of the increase in violence in the Sinai.
Lethal Sinai attack is connected to the Gaza blockade
link to 972mag.com