Culture

In Photos: A love letter to Gaza

Before the genocide, life in Gaza was both unbearably hard and unbearably beautiful.

When I walk back through memory, I’m confronted with a longing for a sight I fear I’ll never see again.

Kites cut through Gaza's skyline. Kites cutting through Gaza's skyline. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
Kites cut through Gaza’s skyline. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

The two years I spent in Gaza before the morning of October 7 are my final record of when it was whole.

People sit by a beachside grill as food is prepared along Gaza’s shore in the evening, July 11, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
People sit by a beachside grill as food is prepared along Gaza’s shore in the evening, July 11, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

When I think of home, my mind settles on its shores, because the waves greet you with a kind of freedom.

A man pulls a small fishing boat onto the sand at the end of the day, March 11, 2023. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
A man pulls a small fishing boat onto the sand at the end of the day, March 11, 2023. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

The air is salty, biting. Each wave carries its own sound. Each sound its own universe.

Boys run through the surf, playing together along Gaza’s shoreline, August 16, 2023. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
Boys run through the surf, playing together along Gaza’s shoreline, August 16, 2023. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

It’s Gaza’s greatest paradox, feeling like the freest person in the world, in the world’s largest prison.

Two kids at Gaza's main harbour, Al-Mina, July 11, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
Two kids at Gaza’s main harbour, Al-Mina, July 11, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

Each moment felt like it happened just for you.

Two boys smile in al-Shuhada Street, Gaza, November 14, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
Two boys smile in al-Shuhada Street, Gaza, November 14, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

On paper, life in Gaza was unbearably difficult. But it was also unbearably beautiful.

People gather along the rocky edge of Gaza’s coast as the city skyline fades into dusk, July 11, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
People gather along the rocky edge of Gaza’s coast as the city skyline fades into dusk, July 11, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

In the streets, the people were everywhere. We waited for the taxi to take us north of north, arriving at Beit Hanoun, the mother of magic.

School children make their home through a rain-soaked street, the city slowing under winter weather. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
School children make their home through a rain-soaked street, the city slowing under winter weather. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

Writing here from Canada, everything’s the polar opposite: streets filled with strangers walking by one another for the last time. But on one cold evening, as I sat on my balcony smoking a cigarette, I saw two people running and laughing, and they brought me back to Gaza’s streets.

Gaza on a wet morning. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
Gaza on a wet morning. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

It’s funny, how laughter cuts through the cold, cuts all the way to home.

A quiet stretch of Gaza’s coastline as a horse walks across the sand, March 7, 2023. A man rests on a street corner, a common pause in the rhythm of daily life in Gaza, July 8, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
A quiet stretch of Gaza’s coastline as a horse walks across the sand, March 7, 2023. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

I remember the old man sitting on his plastic chair in the shade during summer.

A man rests on a street corner, a common pause in the rhythm of daily life in Gaza, July 8, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
A man rests on a street corner, a common pause in the rhythm of daily life in Gaza, July 8, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

The same man warmed by the winter sun at noon.

A man sits alone along a quiet street, resting outside of his house, February 17, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
A man sits alone along a quiet street, resting outside of his house, February 17, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

The taxi that could take you to any part of Gaza, but you feel like it can take you anywhere in the world.

A child sits along a busy street in Gaza, watching traffic and pedestrians pass through old Gaza, September 1, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
A child sits along a busy street in Gaza, watching traffic and pedestrians pass through old Gaza, September 1, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

That was then, two million lives ago, two million memories. Mine is just one of them, and it’s all I have left of you. I’m grateful that I still have it.

Two boys sit outside a closed storefront, March 5, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
Two boys sit outside a closed storefront, March 5, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

I hope to return to you one day as a free man. In a free land, among the freest people in the world.

Two boys play in the shallow water along Gaza’s shoreline during the late afternoon, July 11, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)
Two boys play in the shallow water along Gaza’s shoreline during the late afternoon, July 11, 2022. (Photo: Mahmoud Nasser)

Mahmoud Nasser
Mahmoud Nasser is a Palestinian documentary photographer currently based in Toronto, Canada.


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